Archive for category 91-95
Calistoga Cellars – 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Posted by Jeff in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red, Wine on 6 September 2010
Long gone are the days when I could get awesome wine for $30 dollars. Now, sadly, it costs me quite a bit more. But I did have one holdover from the good old days – a bottle recommended by my old local wine guy: a Calistoga Cellars 2006 Napa Cab. $30 Napa cabs are generally above my typical price point for a bottle of wine, but it was a special treat, and the first cool day of fall seemed to be occasion enough.
Lisa summed up the bouquet quite well: “If you really stick your nose in it, you feel like you might get drunk from smelling it.” This isn’t to say it has a heavy alcohol hint, but rather that the flavor of the wine comes across in its aroma as much as its taste. At first the Calistoga seems rather normal, perhaps masquerading as a simple wine that is exceptionally well controlled, but the longer you hold it in your mouth the more you begin to appreciate the complexities in the palate. The simple fruit of the first stage progresses to a slightly sweet but intense berry middle, with hints of tobacco, chocolate and faint spice at the end. It isn’t a heavy, gentleman’s wine, but rather has a bit of lightness to it, while still managing to be coy and somewhat distant.
We’ve said this before about some of the more expensive wines we’ve reviewed, but the bottom line of the Calistoga is this: there’s nothing particularly remarkable about the bottle, but it is, simply put, extremely well executed. For $30, it is a very solid wine, and certainly a clear improvement over the $20-25 range. For $50, I might want more, but at this price point, the value is definitely there.
Score: 93
Amancaya – 2007 Malbec/Cabernet (Rothschild/Catena)
We reviewed the CARO Rothschild/Catena collaboration on this site a while back, and found that the $50 wine was one of the best bottles we’d ever opened. Fortunately for us, this is not the only joint effort between these two vineyards. A much less expensive version of the CARO called Amancaya can be found for between $15 and $20. Is it worth the money? Absolutely.
Let’s just get this out of the way: the Amancaya is a fantastic wine. While I don’t have the CARO sitting next to me to compare, the Amancaya feels its equal in every way. Smooth and creamy, well balanced and absolutely full of flavor, it is a wine that is to be savored. Deep, dark fruit flavors with plenty of chocolate and coffee accents, the Amancaya is excellently controlled, with no one flavor dominating, and no off flavor ruining the experience – it is, simply put, an excellent blend where both the Cabernet and Malbec come together in an exceptional way.
To me, there has to be something special about a wine in order to give it a score higher than a 92 – either it must offer something new and unexpected, or it should be of such an amazing value that I simply can’t score it lower and be fair. In this case, the Amancaya has done both. It has matched the excellent characteristics of its more expensive cousin, while at the same time redefining what an excellent blend can be.
Score: 95
Sebastiani – 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Posted by Lisa in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red, Wine on 2 November 2009
A quick search of our website revealed several reviews and mentions of this wine, so I think it’s fair to say that we are, generally speaking, fans of a nice glass of the Sebastiani cab. We reviewed the 2005, and I’m happy to report that the 2006 does not disappoint.
This wine doesn’t have a strong aroma when you open it, which seems strange to me because it’s a very robust wine to drink. I think my favorite thing about the Sebastiani cab is the oak flavor that comes through. There’s really no question where this wine spent it’s fermentation period. Beyond that, it’s simultaneously sweet and salty, which sounds like something you wouldn’t want to drink but is actually something that really works. There’s a lot to this wine, between the smoky oak flavor, the rich cherry notes, and the chocolately/salty finish. It’s definitely something that would match well with food, but I would almost suggest not wasting it on food as it is fabulous on its own.
Bottom line: this year’s vintage does not disappoint. Fabulous wine for the price point.
Score: 93
Veramonte – 2006 Primus Red Wine
Posted by Jeff in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Red, Shiraz / Syrah, Wine on 25 October 2009
I’ll be honest: I’m not generally a fan of blended reds. In theory, you can get the best of all the various grape varietals in a single wine, resulting in something you’d pick any day over the individual wines. In practice, it seems you often get something that either retains hardly any varietal character, or a wine where the vintner seemed to be trying to cut his wine with cheap grapes. No thanks, I’ll pass.
Primus, however, is not your typical blended wine. For starters, it hails from Veramonte, a vineyard I rather enjoy. Second, its blend is unlike anything you’ll find in any other aisle of your grocer – 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Syrah, 17% Merlot, and 16% Carmenere. Veramonte’s stated purpose is to highlight the spectrum of Chilean varietals in a single wine. Ranging somewhere between $16-20, this is not a cheap wine, but neither is it stratospherically priced. But how is it to drink?
While some blended wines are mellow and forgettable, Primus’s billing as a bold blend is not at all sold short. In fact, I don’t think it would be a stretch to call it one of the most powerful wines I’ve ever encountered. Rich and spicy with wonderful fruit tones coming from all the different varietals, Primus is put together exactly right. No single varietal composes more than 50% of this wine, and it produces a unique and wonderful sensation: as you drink, each of the four varietals comes up in turns, the wine morphing in your mouth between Cabernet and Syrah, Merlot and Carmenere depending on the moment. Somehow it truly does become greater than all of its parts, delightful and unique in every way.
The verdict? While this wine is not on the cheap end of the spectrum when it comes to Chilean reds, I don’t doubt I’ll buy it again. Unlike anything else you can purchase, Primus is an excellent example of what a great blended wine can be.
Score: 92
St. Arnold’s – Divine Reserve No. 8 (Scotch Ale)
For those who don’t know, Saint Arnold’s Divine Reserve is the Holy Grail of Texas Beer. Produced in extremely small runs (1,500 cases) and commanding a whopping $15 per six-pack, Divine Reserve generally sells out within an hour of hitting the shelves. Due to some shoddy supply chain management, local shipments didn’t arrive until yesterday, and despite my (not) important position as a self-styled reviewer, I didn’t get any. Luckily, I have friends (and a sister) who were more fortunate than I, and after some bribery and veiled threats, I was able to secure a couple of bottles for review.
First the basics: Divine Reserves have never been anywhere close to light. Clocking in as usual with over 9% abv and with a tremendously full body, this is not a beer to chug, but rather to savor.
Divine Reserve’s distinct caramel, opaque color tells you right away that this is not a simple beer. Strong aromas of smoke and sweetness greet you before you taste the malty toffee notes. While some might say the smoky flavor is a bit too much, I think it brings images of barley malted over peat fires with a rich, earthy character. Surprisingly smooth for a beer with so much body, flavor and alcohol, DR 8 is almost syrupy, coating your mouth with a rich creaminess.
One of the wonderful things about each iteration of Divine Reserve is its perfect balance. Often strong beers have an overload of a single element, such that all you can taste is hop, or alcohol, or malt. The beauty of such a limited run is that, as usual, the guys at Saint Arnold’s have nailed it right on. There is nothing out of balance, nothing too brash. Flavors blend together, bubble up to the surface, mingle for a while, and then give way to new experiences rising up from the bottom of your palate.
The bad news, of course, is that Divine Reserve 8 is no longer available in stores. There appear to be 3 bottles on eBay, but who knows about that. Every time Divine Reserve comes out, I feel as though I’ve been given a beer revelation. It’s not just good beer – it’s what good beer can be.
Score: 94
Salva Tierra – 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Posted by Lisa in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red, Wine on 5 September 2009
I graduated law school in May. And now it’s September. And my brother got me this poncy wine, which is to say, more expensive than probably anything we’ve had on here. However, you must all remember that we are mere commoners here, and more expensive than we’ve had is still in the $30 price range.
On to the thoughts… This is probably one of the most full bodied wines I’ve had. One of the first distinctions from the cheap wines we usually try on here is that it’s complex; not the one note wonder with an overpowering flavor. It has a deep tannin flavor to anchor it, but is balanced out with nice fruit tones that accentuate without taking over. It also has some spicy notes, distinguishing it from some of our usual favorite cabs, but adding another layer to the flavor. Simply put, we really like this wine.
That said, I keep thinking back to some of our favorites on here – the Sebastiani, or the Los Vascos Reserve, both about half the price of this wine. We don’t think that those cheaper wines are better than this one, but at some point I think we all put price into the wine purchasing equation. I guess my recommendation is, if you have a sister graduating from law school, this wine will make her very happy or if you just want to drop some green on a slightly more expensive wine, this one certainly won’t disappoint.
And just to give you an idea of how great the wine is, it also came with the Twilight DVD and a book that tells me how many calories are in everything I eat, and it still stands out in the gift basket. That, my friends, is a great wine.
Score: 92
Los Vascos – Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Reserve
Posted by Jeff in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red, Wine on 23 August 2009
We like Los Vascos. In fact, we like it a lot. For under $9 at the local wine store, it represents one of the best values I’ve ever found, and is quite possibly my go-to wine for all occasions where I don’t want to think and am not feeling adventurous. The question I ask every time I pick up a bottle, however, is whether it’s worth 4 dollars to get the “Reserve” Cabernet sitting next to it. In a word, yes.
It’s no secret that Chile produces excellent wine at excellent prices. Ten dollar Chilean wines are quite good, and it can actually be difficult to find something in a more expensive price point. What is the difference, then, that justifies the extra cost? In short: refinement. The Reserve doesn’t give up anything in the area of flavor, but all the flavors meld together perfectly, creating a wine that is wonderfully balanced and excellently controlled. A smooth, velvety texture wraps itself around your mouth and leaves you longing for another sip, another glass, another bottle.
In short, the Los Vascos Reserve isn’t worth four dollars more because it tastes better, it’s worth four dollars more because it is better. It’s extra value is not in its taste, but in its character. Less brash, more grown up – however you want to say it, the more expensive cousin is the real deal.
Score: 92
Sausal Family Vineyards – 2006 Private Reserve Zinfandel (90 yr.)
Zinfandels always seem to confuse me – as a grape, it seems to have all the elements for an interesting wine, but a few early bad experiences really tainted my opinions. The 2006 Sausal Private Reserve Zinfandel (older brother of the Family Zinfandel we reviewed at the same time) promises to help me put my misgivings aside with an impressive set of credentials: it is a limited production Estate Zinfandel from Sonoma made from vines with an average age of over 90 years. With a resume like that, I was excited to get tasting.
The most notable element of this wine, on first taste, is its spiciness – one would, of course, expect a zin to be spicy, but this bottle is even spicier than you might expect. This is not to say that other flavors are not there; in fact, every flavor commonly found in a zinfandel is present, and all in equal, blown up proportions: A nice, fruity base, for instance, does a good job of backing up the very bold spicy overtones.
The problem with the Private Reserve Zinfandel, then, is this overabundance of flavor. It really is an odd thing to have to review, since this seems like something that would not be such a problem: Jeff even noted that when reviewing beer, he almost always will go for the one with the bigger, bolder, more forward flavors, but in this case the excess just seems a bit unnecessary. Having so much flavor constantly tossed towards you, even if it is expertly balanced, does not make for an ideal drinking experience.
All of this, however, seemed to change when we made one small change – the Sausal Private Reserve Zinfandel is a fantastic companion to spicy food. When paired with similarly bold flavors, the amplified taste of the wine started making sense. Everything remained perfectly balanced, and none of the elements that seemed too brash when tasted in isolation appeared offensive at all. Thus, the end result of this review seems to be a bit dual-layered: in isolation, the Private Reserve is an interesting wine, but its excessive boldness means that better options exist (and for cheaper). I am not sure, however, that I have ever had a wine that worked better paired with spicy food.
The score here reflects the exact same principle that we used to score the Sausal Family Zinfandel: in this case, though, something that seemed almost excessive, brash, and unnecessary at first glance completely changed character solely based on the context in which it was placed. A wine that we originally appreciated but did not compleltely enjoy became, in the presence of food, something wonderful that we both agree we would buy again for a meal that need a powerful companion to stand up to stand up to its robust flavor. More than that, we both agree that pairing the Private Reserve Zinfandel with spicy food was one of the best food and wine experiences that we’ve ever had. Because of this, we feel that the Private Reserve Zinfandel did genuinely offer us a new and interesting experience, and deserves to be rated with the select group of wines that change our perspective on what wine can be.
Score: 93
Sausal Family Vineyards – 2006 Family Zinfandel
Sausal Family Vineyards is a family founded, owned and operated winery in California’s Alexander Valley, officially operating in its current incarnation since 1973. With vines dating back to 1877, they boast a selection of high quality Estate Zinfandels produced from Italian winemaking traditions brought over by the original family patriarch. Much more casual than a major industrial operation, Sausal’s wines are produced on a small scale (this particular run was 3100 cases) with personal attention.
Seth and I decided to put the 50 and 90 year varieties side by side and compare them with a stock, 2006 Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zin. My writeup covers the 50 year Sausal Family Zinfandel, which can be found on the Winery’s website for $19.
For starters, the Family Zinfandel is one of the most balanced Zins I’ve ever tried. All of the traditional Zinfandel flavors are there – spice, fruit, and even a hint of vanilla sweetness, all perfectly blended, none overpowering the others. It’s so well balanced, in fact, that each mouthful seems to offer a new experience depending on what you’re looking for, each flavor taking its turn to delight your senses before stepping back into the shadows. While it doesn’t have the same brashness of many Zinfandels, this is by no means a wine that feels watered down. Rather it is perfectly multi-dimensional, not too strong in any one suit, but not disappointing anyone in any way. Perfectly drinkable by itself but certainly enjoyable with a meal, this is all around one of the most enjoyable Zinfandels I’ve ever experienced.
After a bit of debate, we decided to score this wine at a 92. We arrived at this number for philosophical reasons more than any shortcoming of the wine itself. While we both enjoyed this wine as much as any Zin we’ve ever had, our ultimate conclusion is that it falls short of offering us something new – something that changes our perspective about what a Zin should be. Like my high school English teacher who refused to give any paper higher than a 92 unless it offered her something novel, even if it was technically perfect, we couldn’t bring ourselves to score this particular Sausal any higher, even though it controlled all of its competing flavors with technical perfection.
Final result? If you’re looking for an excellent Zinfandel and are willing to spend a few extra dollars over the pack of $15 bottles, this is a wine that won’t disappoint.
Score: 92
J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks – 2006 Cabernet
Posted by Lisa in 91-95, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red, Wine on 8 February 2009
I first had this one with the Russell’s, so when I saw it on sale this week ($5 off!) I had to pick up a bottle. Totally worth it.
It has this great fruity smell when you open it and certainly you can pick out the black current and cherry in the wine, but the best part to me is how smooth it is. There are tons of great flavors in here, but the impressive part to me is how it all just works together. It’s just so nicely balanced - complex, but smooth. I could keep raving, but suffice to say I would buy this bottle again, even without the helpful discount. And so I’m going to rank this one high, and I would go so far as to say its one of my top 5 personal wines.
Score: 91